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Warsaw lies on the east-west European axis and as such has for centuries held a geopolitical influence that belies its size. However, it was its very location on the Mazovian plains that made it so vulnerable during the war, the result of which was the annihilation of the medieval city. Emerging from the post-war period into 40 years of oppressive Communist rule, Warsaw is still recovering from its traumatic past. Architecturally Warsaw is a blight, dominated by staid communist era concrete tower blocks looming over its residents like the regime of old.

In recent years Warsaw has attempted to freshen up its image, making creative use of boardings, murals and improved building designs for new houses. However, it will take many years before Warsaw begins to look and feel like a modern European capital, rather than a poor, though undeniably fresh and exciting city.

But big steps have been made in transforming Warsaw from a backwater of despair from which people were desperate to escape, to one of Europe's most dynamic urban centres. Virtually every day new luxury hotels, elegant shops and western restaurant and bar chains open new venues.

The main sights are located on the western bank of the Wisla river. Marking the northern end of the city centre, the busy Stare Miasto (Old Town) provides the historic focal point. The magnificent Zamek Królewski (Royal Castle), ancient Archikatedra sw. Jana (St John's Cathedral) and the Rynek Starego Miasta (Old Town Square) are all sites worth seeing. Likewise the Baroque churches and the former palaces of the aristocracy west of the ring of defensive walls, and to the north in the quietly atmospheric Nowe Miasto (New Town), should not be missed.

Warsaw does not enjoy much of a reputation as a holiday destination, but it is a much livelier and more cosmopolitan place than it is given credit for. Warsaw's bloody history, its destruction in the war and subsequent resurrection has given its people not only a a tangible sense of pride in their city, but an openness and hospitality that will be the highlight of your trip.

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