Postcard from Crete
It’s been 15 years since I last visited Crete and, although there is a little more development around the coast than I remember, the incredible beauty of this island is still enough to take my breath away.
As we wind our way along the main highway from Heraklion airport to Chania, rugged mountains drop dramatically into the glistening Mediterranean and panoramic vistas greet us around each corner. The further west we travel, the landscape becomes more fertile; barren slopes and scrubland give way to green bushes and vibrant bougainvillea.
Our destination is the small seaside resort of Almerida, midway between Rethymnon and Chania. I’m sure the area must get much busier in the peak summer months and I’ve already been warned by a local about the first 3 weeks in August when the Greeks descend in force for their annual summer break but I can’t imagine a better spot for some early summer sunshine.
The forecast for the week is sunshine all the way and a constant daily temperature of 28 degrees Celsius. Although we have our own (very inviting) pool, the small gently shelving beach calls us. We easily find a spot along the sandy crescent beach and the shallow waters are gentle and already warmed by the sun – perfect, if like us, you are travelling with children. And there’s a good choice of tavernas along the beach for later. I’d happily recommend the Psaros Taverna for its warm welcome and a wide menu - including all those traditional Greek favourites; souvlaki, moussaka, stifado and (my personal favourite) cheese saganaki. But, wherever we ate, we were very taken with the local tradition of giving each table a complimentary dessert (freshly baked cake or yogurt and honey) at the end of the evening – with a shot of ouzo to finish things off!
No trip here would be complete without a visit to Knossos and the many coaches in the car park serve to demonstrate that these impressive ruins are on everybody’s itinerary! Rather than book an organised tour, we chose to visit under our own steam, armed with a guide book, map and plenty of water! I was able to enjoy wandering around the palace at my own pace, venturing off the well trodden route to explore the outer reaches of the palace and seek the shade of the trees as the sun rose higher in the sky.
I would also recommend a trip to the Venetian Fortress at Rethymnon. Although the ongoing restoration work will eventually provide a museum and gift shop, for now visitors are able to leisurely wander around the ruined fort, exploring the underground chambers, clambering aloft the outer walls and admiring the sea views from the many vantage points along the way. On the way back to the villa, we couldn’t resist a stop along the Bay of Almiros to cool off. From Petres to Georgioupoli you’ll find long, almost deserted stretches of beach, catered by small beach clubs. We stopped for an hour or two, enjoying the shade at one of the tavernas before treating the children to an ice cream, a dip in the pool and a stroll along the beach.
All in all, the whole family agreed a week here was simply not long enough – next time we’ll come for two!
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